🇨🇳 China · Chongqing (Jiangjin area)

Suan cai yuPickled mustard fish soup

Thin slices of freshwater fish poached in a hot, sour broth made from fish bones and fried pickled mustard greens (suan cai) with pickled chili and ginger, served in a large bowl or basin with the broth.

Suan cai yu (Pickled mustard fish soup)

Origin and history

Suan cai yu is a Chongqing dish with no settled inventor or date. One account has Jiangjin fishermen trading small fish to farmers for pickled greens and boiling the two together; another credits a Jiangjin restaurant serving it in the mid-1980s; the most popular Sichuan story says educated youth sent to the countryside used pickled greens to mask the muddy taste of freshwater fish and brought the method back to the cities in the late 1970s.

Make it at home

Makes
4 to 6 servings
Total time
1 h
Hands-on
40 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 1 kg2.2 lb whole freshwater fish (grass carp, or sea bass), scaled, gutted, head and bones kept; ask the fishmonger to fillet it
  • 1 egg white, for the marinade
  • 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine or rice wine, for the marinade
  • 1 tbsp cornstarch or potato starch, for the marinade
  • 1/2 tsp white pepper, for the marinade
  • 1 tsp fine salt, for the marinade, plus more to taste
  • 200 g7 oz Sichuan pickled mustard greens (suan cai), cut in thin strips, rinsed briefly and squeezed; keep a little of the brine
  • 70 g2 1/2 oz soybean sprouts or mung bean sprouts, optional, roots removed
  • 6 pickled red chilies (pao jiao), optional but typical
  • 8 dried red chilies, snipped in pieces
  • 1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
  • 5 slices ginger, plus 2 tsp minced
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 4 tbsp neutral oil, plus 2 tbsp for the final pour
  • 1 L4 cups boiling water, or half water, half fish stock
  • 1 tsp sugar, to soften the sourness
  • coriander and scallion, chopped, to finish

Method

  1. 1. Cut the fillets from the bones. Slice them across the grain about 5 mm (1/4 in) thick, and chop the head and bones in large pieces.

  2. 2. Rub the fish slices and bones with the salt until sticky, rinse until the slices look nearly translucent and drain well. Mix the slices with the egg white, wine, starch and white pepper and leave them for 15 minutes.

  3. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over high heat. Fry the ginger slices until fragrant, then brown the head and bones for 2 to 3 minutes on each side.

  4. 4. Pour in the boiling water, bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes, until the broth is cloudy and white. Strain and discard the bones, or keep the meatier pieces for the bowl.

  5. 5. In a clean wok heat 2 tablespoons of oil. Fry the minced ginger and garlic, the dried and pickled chilies and the peppercorns until the kitchen smells of chili.

  6. 6. Add the pickled mustard greens and toss for 2 minutes. Pour in the strained broth, add the sugar and the sprouts and simmer 8 minutes. Taste, and add salt only if needed, since the pickles are salty.

  7. 7. Turn the heat to low. Slide the fish slices in one at a time without stirring. Turn off the heat as soon as they turn white, after about 30 seconds.

  8. 8. Tip everything into a large bowl. Scatter chilies, a few peppercorns, coriander and scallion over the surface, heat the last 2 tablespoons of oil until smoking and pour it over to bloom the aromatics. Serve at once with rice.

Notes

  • The sour base is Sichuan pickled mustard greens (suan cai), made from mustard leaves; it is not the same as the fermented cabbage suan cai of the northeast. Rinse them briefly so they keep their tang.
  • Grass carp is the classic fish; sole fillets (long li yu) are used in Taiwanese versions, and any firm white fish fillet works. Keeping the head and bones for the broth gives the body, but if you only have fillets use a ready fish stock.
  • Tofu skin and other vegetables are often added to the broth before the fish; the dish is eaten as a main with rice.
  • The salted, rinsed fish slices keep their shape better; do not overcook them, or they turn dry and break up.

Adapted from HK01, Suan Cai Yu recipe (simplified version), Celia Chan's Kitchen, Sichuan Fish Fillet with Pickled Vegetable, and China Sichuan Food, Szechuan Fish (Suan Cai Yu).

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