🇲🇽 Mexico · City (Tlalpan, per working hypothesis)

Caldo tlalpeñoMexican chicken chipotle soup

A Mexican chicken and vegetable broth with chickpeas, carrots and green beans, flavored with chipotle and epazote, served with avocado, cheese and lime.

Caldo tlalpeño (Mexican chicken chipotle soup)

Origin and history

Caldo tlalpeño is named after Tlalpan, a former village in the south of Mexico City, and the most widely repeated origin, recorded by the Larousse gastronomic dictionary, places it there in the 19th century. According to tradition, cooks sold chipotle-spiced chicken broth to travellers at the end of the Tlalpan tram line, or improvised it for a hungover General Santa Anna; neither story is documented. Tlalpan now holds a yearly Festival del Caldo Tlalpeño.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 15 min
Hands-on
35 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 1.2 kg2.6 lb bone-in chicken pieces, mostly thighs, or a whole chicken in pieces
  • 3 l12 1/2 cups water
  • 1/2 white onion, for the broth
  • 3 cloves garlic, for the broth
  • 1 tbsp coarse salt, plus more to taste
  • 3 ripe tomatoes (jitomates), quartered
  • 1/4 white onion, for the sauce
  • 1 clove garlic, for the sauce
  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 2 to 3 dried chipotle chiles (meco or mora), or chipotles in adobo, to taste; they vary in heat
  • 2 carrots, peeled, diced
  • 150 g5 oz green beans (ejotes), in 2 cm (3/4 in) pieces
  • 2 Mexican squash (calabacitas) or small zucchini, diced
  • 250 g1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (garbanzos), drained
  • 3 sprigs epazote
  • to serve: diced avocado, cubed queso fresco, panela or Oaxaca cheese, chopped white onion and cilantro, lime wedges, extra chipotle in adobo

Method

  1. 1. Put the chicken in a large pot with the water, half onion, 3 garlic cloves and the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off the foam, then lower the heat and simmer for 25 to 35 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

  2. 2. Lift out the chicken, let it cool a little, then shred the meat and discard the skin and bones. Strain the broth back into the pot.

  3. 3. If using dried chipotles, wipe them and toast them for a few seconds on a dry pan until fragrant, without letting them blacken.

  4. 4. Blend the tomatoes with the quarter onion, the garlic clove and a cup of the broth until smooth.

  5. 5. Heat the oil in a frying pan, pour in the tomato purée and fry it for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring, until it darkens and thickens.

  6. 6. Stir the fried tomato into the broth with the carrots and the chipotles (whole if dried, so they flavour the broth without overwhelming it) and simmer for 10 minutes.

  7. 7. Add the green beans, calabacitas and chickpeas and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes more, until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape.

  8. 8. Add the epazote and the shredded chicken for the last 5 minutes, taste and season with salt.

  9. 9. Ladle into bowls, making sure each gets chicken, chickpeas and vegetables, and finish with avocado, cheese, onion, cilantro and a squeeze of lime.

Notes

  • Chipotle is what makes it a tlalpeño. Dried chipotle meco or mora added whole gives a smoky, gentler broth; chipotles in adobo, common in family kitchens, are quicker and hotter. Add a little at a time and taste.
  • Epazote is the other constant; Tlalpan cooks call it essential. Without it, some use a sprig of mint (hierbabuena) or cilantro; the broth is pleasant but less characteristic.
  • Thighs stay juicier than breast; breast is traditional too but should not overcook.
  • Variations: diced potato instead of squash; chayote and a peeled xoconostle (sour prickly pear) in the broth; a spoonful of cooked white rice in each bowl, as some Tlalpan restaurants serve it.
  • The broth and chicken keep 3 days in the fridge; add the green vegetables and epazote when reheating.
  • Related soups: tortilla soup (sopa azteca) and the chicken caldos of central Mexico.

Adapted from Caldo tlalpeño, Revista del Consumidor (Profeco), with chef Ulises García of Tlalpan, Caldo tlalpeño tradicional, Excélsior, and Roberto Santibañez, Caldo tlalpeño.

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