Chili

• 4 dried ancho chiles, stems, seeds and veins removed
• 2 dried guajillo chiles, stems, seeds and veins removed
• 1 dried chipotle chile or 2 chiles de árbol, seeded; for heat, optional
• 1.2 kg2.6 lb beef chuck, trimmed of gristle, cut in 1-1.5 cm (1/2 in) cubes
• 3 tbsp lard, rendered beef fat or neutral oil
• 1 large white onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 tsp cumin seeds, or 2 tsp ground cumin, toasted and ground
• 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
• 200 g3/4 cup crushed tomatoes, optional; leave out for a Texas 'bowl of red'
• 1 l4 1/4 cups water or beef broth, or part beer
• 2 tbsp masa harina, mixed with 4 tbsp water
• 500 g3 cups cooked pinto or red kidney beans, drained; optional
• salt, to taste
• to serve: chopped white onion, grated cheddar, pickled jalapeños, saltine crackers or cornbread

Method

1. 1

   1. Toast the dried chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat for 20-30 seconds a side, pressing them flat, until they smell toasty and soften. Do not let them blacken or the sauce will be bitter.

2. 2

   2. Put the chiles in a bowl, cover them with boiling water and leave them to soak for 15-20 minutes, until soft.

3. 3

   3. Drain the chiles and blend them with the garlic, cumin, oregano and about 250 ml (1 cup) fresh water until very smooth. Push the purée through a sieve if there are bits of skin.

4. 4

   4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the fat in a heavy Dutch oven over high heat. Brown the beef in batches, without crowding, until seared on the outside. Set it aside.

5. 5

   5. Lower the heat to medium, add the rest of the fat and the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until soft.

6. 6

   6. Pour in the chile purée and fry it, stirring constantly, for 5-8 minutes, until it darkens and thickens. It will spatter.

7. 7

   7. Return the beef with its juices, add the tomatoes (if using) and the water or broth, and season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer very gently for 2-2 1/2 hours, stirring now and then, until the beef is tender. Add a little water if it gets too thick.

8. 8

   8. Stir in the masa harina mixture and simmer, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes, until the chili thickens and loses its floury taste. Skim off excess fat.

9. 9

   9. If you want beans, stir them in for the last 10 minutes, or serve them on the side. Taste for salt and serve hot in bowls with the garnishes.