🇦🇿 Azerbaijan

DovgaAzerbaijani yogurt soup

Azerbaijani yogurt soup thickened with flour and egg and cooked with rice, chickpeas and a large amount of fresh herbs (dill, coriander, mint, spinach), served hot in winter or chilled in summer.

Dovga (Azerbaijani yogurt soup)

Origin and history

Dovga is one of the best-known soups of Azerbaijan, a yogurt soup thickened with flour and egg and cooked with rice, chickpeas and a large quantity of fresh herbs. It is customarily served at weddings between courses of meat, and is also described as a national dish. It is eaten hot in winter and chilled in summer.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h
Hands-on
40 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 750 g3 cups full-fat plain yogurt (qatıq), not strained Greek-style if you can avoid it
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten
  • 1 tbsp plain flour
  • 80 g1/3 cup medium-grain rice, rinsed
  • 1 l4 cups water, plus more to thin
  • 240 g1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas, canned is fine; drained and rinsed
  • 100 g4 oz spinach, finely chopped
  • 1 bunch dill, finely chopped
  • 1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
  • 5 to 10 leaves fresh mint, chopped
  • salt and black pepper, to taste, added at the end

Method

  1. 1. Put the chopped herbs and spinach in a colander, let the green juice drain, then rinse with cold water without squeezing.

  2. 2. In a large heavy pot off the heat, whisk the yogurt, egg and flour until completely smooth, then whisk in the water.

  3. 3. Stir in the rice and set the pot over medium heat.

  4. 4. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the soup comes to a gentle boil, about 10 to 15 minutes; this keeps the yogurt from splitting.

  5. 5. Lower the heat and add the herbs and spinach. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the rice is soft.

  6. 6. Stir in the chickpeas and switch off the heat.

  7. 7. Season with salt and pepper only now, and thin with a little cold water if the soup is too thick.

  8. 8. Serve hot, or cool and chill for a cold soup.

Notes

  • Dovga (dovğa) is traditionally a wedding soup, served between meat courses; it is eaten hot in winter and cold in summer, with the same recipe.
  • Salt late and stir continuously until the first boil: the flour and egg help hold the yogurt together, but it can still split if left alone or salted early.
  • The herb mix varies: some recipes add tarragon, chives, celery or garlic. Cabbage is added in the Qabala region, and meatballs are an optional addition in some versions.
  • Abdug is a related soup popular in southern Azerbaijan and Iran, made without rice and served with ice in summer, sometimes with raisins, nuts, rose petals and toasted lavash. The Armenian spas is a neighbouring yogurt soup.
  • If you cannot find qatıq, use plain unsweetened whole-milk yogurt; the soup will be a little less sour.

Adapted from Anna Ansari, Silk Roads (recipe published by olive magazine), 196 flavors, Azerbaijan: dovga, and SBS Food, Yoghurt and herb soup (dovga).

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