🇵🇱 Poland · Warsaw
Flaki po warszawskuWarsaw-style tripe soup
Warsaw-style flaki: beef tripe simmered in beef broth with julienned root vegetables, seasoned with marjoram, ginger, nutmeg and paprika, thickened with a butter roux and finished with small veal meatballs (pulpety), served with grated Parmesan.
Origin and history
Lucyna Ćwierczakiewiczowa printed flaki in her 365 obiadów za 5 złotych (1860) in the form Warsaw made its own: tripe cooked for hours, then simmered in veal broth with roots cut 'like noodles', marjoram, meatballs, and ginger or grated Parmesan on top. Pre-war Warsaw bars and fine restaurants served it thick with meatballs and Parmesan; after 1945 it lived on in milk bars and at the Różycki bazaar, ladled from kettles into jars.
Make it at home
- Makes
- 6 servings
- Total time
- 5 h
- Hands-on
- 1 h
Ingredients
- 1 kg2.2 lb beef tripe (flaki wołowe), cleaned, or 800 g (1.75 lb) pre-cooked sliced tripe; see notes
- 500 g1.1 lb veal shank on the bone, or beef shank (szponder), veal is the old Warsaw preference
- 2.5 l10 1/2 cups cold water, plus more for blanching
- 1 onion, halved
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 allspice berries (ziele angielskie)
- 6 black peppercorns
- 2 carrots, cut in fine matchsticks
- 1 parsley root (pietruszka) or small parsnip, cut in fine matchsticks
- 150 g5 oz celeriac (celery root), cut in fine matchsticks
- 1/2 leek, white part, in thin strips
- 30 g2 tbsp butter, for the vegetables
- 400 g14 oz minced veal, for the meatballs (pulpety)
- 1 egg, for the meatballs
- 30 g1/3 cup fine dry breadcrumbs, for the meatballs
- 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, for the meatballs
- 1 pinch ground mace or nutmeg, for the meatballs
- 2 tbsp plain flour, for dusting the meatballs
- 40 g3 tbsp butter, for the roux
- 40 g1/3 cup plain flour, for the roux
- 2 tbsp dried marjoram (majeranek)
- 1 tsp ground ginger, plus more at the table
- 1 tsp sweet paprika
- 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 80 g3 oz (about 1 cup grated) Parmesan, finely grated, to serve
- fresh bread rolls (bułki), to serve
Method
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1. Rinse the tripe several times in warm water. Put it in a pot of cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 10 minutes, then drain and rinse it again.
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2. Put the blanched tripe and the veal shank in a large pot with the 2.5 litres of cold water, the onion, bay leaves, allspice, peppercorns and a teaspoon of salt. Bring slowly to the boil and skim.
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3. Simmer gently, partly covered, for about 4 hours, topping up with hot water to keep everything covered, until a piece of tripe is tender and gives easily when pinched.
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4. Lift out the tripe and the veal and strain the broth. Cut the tripe into thin strips about 5 mm wide and 4 cm (1 1/2 in) long and return them to the broth. Keep the veal for another dish; in Warsaw it was there only for flavour.
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5. Melt 30 g (2 tbsp) of butter in a frying pan and soften the carrot, parsley root, celeriac and leek matchsticks for 8-10 minutes, without browning. Add them to the pot and simmer for 15 minutes.
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6. For the meatballs, mix the veal, egg, breadcrumbs, parsley, mace or nutmeg, half a teaspoon of salt and some pepper until the mixture holds together.
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7. With wet hands, roll it into balls the size of a hazelnut or small walnut (about 2 cm / 3/4 in) and roll them lightly in flour.
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8. Drop the meatballs into the simmering soup and poach them for 12-15 minutes, until firm and cooked through.
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9. Melt 40 g (3 tbsp) of butter in a small pan, stir in the 40 g (1/3 cup) of flour and cook for 1-2 minutes until pale gold. Whisk in a ladle of hot broth until smooth, then stir it gently into the pot so the meatballs do not break.
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10. Season with the marjoram, rubbed between your palms, the ginger, paprika, nutmeg, plenty of black pepper and salt. Simmer for 10 minutes, until the soup is thick and glossy.
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11. Serve very hot in deep plates, with Parmesan and a little ground ginger on the table for everyone to sprinkle over, and fresh rolls.
Notes
- How it differs from the parent flaki: Warsaw-style flaki is thicker and richer. The roots are cut in fine matchsticks and softened in butter, ginger is a leading spice, small veal meatballs are poached in the soup and every plate gets grated Parmesan. The everyday flaki on the parent page is the same tripe soup without meatballs or cheese.
- The 19th-century Warsaw recipe made the meatballs from finely chopped beef suet bound with breadcrumbs, eggs, a little broth, mace and parsley or dill, as for rosół. Veal meatballs are the usual choice today; some Warsaw bars use beef.
- Old thickening: instead of a roux, Ćwierczakiewiczowa softened a whole bread roll in water or milk, rubbed it smooth with fresh butter and stirred it into the pot. It gives a softer, slightly sweet body.
- Shortcut: cleaned, blanched and sliced tripe (flaki krojone, sparzone) is sold in Polish shops. Simmer it in a ready veal or beef stock for 45 minutes to 1 hour before adding the vegetables.
- Many Warsaw cooks add a teaspoon of herbal pepper (pieprz ziołowy), a Polish blend of ground seeds, with the other spices.
- If you have no Parmesan, another hard, aged grating cheese works; mild cheeses melt into strings and lose the sharp contrast.
- Make-ahead: the soup is better the next day. Reheat it gently so the meatballs stay whole; it keeps 3 days in the fridge and freezes well.
Adapted from Lucyna Ćwierczakiewiczowa, 365 obiadów za 5 złotych (1860; 1871 edition), "Flaki" and "Pulpety do rosołu" and Beszamel.pl, "Flaki po warszawsku z pulpetami".
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