🇨🇳 China · hot-and-sour soups are made in several regional kitchens; a standard of Chinese American menus

Hot and sour soup

A thickened chicken or pork stock soured with vinegar and heated with white pepper, holding strips of pork, tofu, bamboo shoots and wood ear or other mushrooms, finished with a swirl of beaten egg.

Hot and sour soup

Origin and history

Hot-and-sour soups are made in several Chinese regional kitchens, and sources disagree about where and when the dish began. One site calls the Sichuan version a soup for warming poor people and dates it loosely to the Qing dynasty without giving a date; ChineseFoodWiki lists no single origin and treats "Sichuan" as a loose flavour hint. It became a standard starter on Chinese American menus, where the thick, vinegary version is best known.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 30 min
Hands-on
35 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 10 g1/3 oz dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked until soft, trimmed and shredded
  • 10 g1/3 oz dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked, stems removed, thinly sliced
  • 10 g1/3 oz dried lily flowers (golden needles), optional, soaked and halved
  • 115 g4 oz pork shoulder or loin, cut into thin matchsticks
  • 1 tsp cornstarch, to coat the pork
  • 2 L8 cups chicken stock, unsalted or low-sodium
  • 115 g4 oz bamboo shoots, cut into matchsticks
  • 225 g8 oz firm tofu, cut into thin strips
  • 1 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 2 tsp dark soy sauce, for colour
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground white pepper, more to taste
  • 80 ml1/3 cup Chinkiang black vinegar or white vinegar, more to taste
  • 45 g1/3 cup cornstarch, stirred with 60 ml (1/4 cup) cold water
  • 1 large egg, beaten
  • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
  • 1 scallion, finely chopped
  • salt and a pinch of sugar, to taste

Method

  1. 1. Soak the wood ear, shiitake and lily flowers in separate bowls of hot water for 30 to 60 minutes, until soft; shred or slice them and discard the shiitake stems.

  2. 2. Toss the pork with 1 teaspoon of cornstarch and a splash of water so the strips stay tender.

  3. 3. Bring the stock to a boil in a large pot, add the pork and stir to separate the strips, then skim off the foam once it returns to a simmer.

  4. 4. Add the mushrooms, lily flowers, bamboo shoots, both soy sauces, white pepper, a little salt and a pinch of sugar, and simmer for 10 minutes.

  5. 5. Add the tofu and the vinegar and heat through gently for 2 minutes.

  6. 6. Stir the cornstarch slurry again and pour it in slowly while stirring in a circle; simmer until the soup is glossy and lightly thick, adding a little more slurry if you want it thicker.

  7. 7. With the soup at a steady simmer, stir it in one direction and drizzle in the beaten egg in a thin stream so it sets in ribbons.

  8. 8. Turn off the heat, stir in the sesame oil, then taste and adjust: more pepper for heat, more vinegar for sourness. Serve in bowls topped with scallion.

Notes

  • The balance is the point: sourness and white-pepper heat should both be clear. Vinegar loses some of its aroma if boiled for long, so many cooks add it near the end.
  • Regional kitchens differ. Sichuan-style bowls lean on black vinegar and plenty of pepper; a northern form (hu la tang) can use beef or lamb stock. Henan's hulatang is a different, wheat-thickened breakfast soup.
  • Cannot find dried lily flowers or wood ear? Leave out the lily flowers and use more shiitake; the texture changes but the soup still works. Rehydrated wood ear is worth seeking out for its crunch.
  • Restaurant bowls are usually thicker than home ones; use less slurry for a lighter soup.
  • Make ahead: the soup keeps 2 days in the fridge; reheat gently and add the egg fresh.

Adapted from The Woks of Life, Hot and Sour Soup, ChineseFoodWiki, Hot and Sour Soup, and China Sichuan Food, Hot and Sour Soup.

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