Hu la tangHenan peppery soup

• 300 g2 1/2 cups strong bread flour, for washing out the wheat gluten
• 175 ml3/4 cup water, for the dough
• 1.6 kg3 1/2 lb beef bones and meat, about 1 kg bones, the rest meat; shin, neck or cheek; lamb is the other traditional choice
• 2.5 L10 cups boiling water, for the stock
• 25 g1 oz dried day lily buds (huang hua cai), soaked 2 hours
• 60 g2 oz raw peanuts, skins rubbed off
• 10 g1/3 oz dried wood ear, soaked 2 hours, thinly sliced
• 18 g2/3 oz dried kelp (kombu), soaked, rinsed, cut in 3 cm strips
• 85 g3 oz sweet potato starch noodles, soaked 2 hours, cut in 5 cm lengths
• 2 1/2 tsp white peppercorns, for the spice powder
• 2 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
• 1 1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
• 3 long peppers, optional
• 1/2 star anise
• 1/4 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 small piece cassia bark
• 2 cloves
• 1/8 nutmeg
• 1 piece angelica, 2 pieces liquorice, 1 sha ren, 1 pod cardamomsame Dahurian angelica root, liquorice root, sha ren, white cardamom, optional; from a Chinese herb shop
• 1 tsp ground ginger, stirred into the spice powder
• 1/2 tbsp fresh ginger, diced
• 1 1/2 tbsp garlic, diced
• 3 tbsp scallions, sliced
• 1 tbsp + 1/2 tsp fine salt, to taste
• 3 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1/2 tbsp dark soy sauce
• sesame oil, aged black vinegar, chopped coriander, chili oil, to finish, at the table
• fried dough sticks (youtiao), to serve

Method

1. 1

   1. Knead the flour and water into a smooth dough, cover and rest for 30 minutes.

2. 2

   2. Wash the dough under water in a large bowl, kneading and squeezing for at least 10 minutes, until the starch has gone into the water and a springy ball of gluten remains. Keep the gluten in water. Sieve the milky water and leave it to settle for at least 6 hours; pour off the clear water on top and keep the thick starch.

3. 3

   3. Cover the beef and bones with cold water, bring to a boil and skim. Drain, rinse the meat and bones and return them to the pot with the 2.5 L of boiling water. Simmer covered on low heat for 2 hours 30 minutes.

4. 4

   4. While the stock simmers, soak the day lily, kelp, wood ear and noodles for 2 hours; rub the skins from the peanuts, then slice the wood ear and cut the kelp and noodles.

5. 5

   5. Dry-toast the whole spices over low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant, cool, then grind to a fine powder and sift. Stir in the ground ginger.

6. 6

   6. Lift the beef and bones from the stock, discard the bones and shred the meat. Return the meat to the stock with the peanuts, scallions, garlic and fresh ginger and keep at a gentle simmer.

7. 7

   7. Pull the gluten into small pieces and add it, then the day lily, kelp, wood ear and noodles.

8. 8

   8. Season with the salt, both soy sauces and the spice powder, adding the powder in stages until the soup is fiercely peppery.

9. 9

   9. Stir the settled starch with a little cold water and pour it in slowly, stirring, and cook until the soup is thick and coats a spoon.

10. 10

    10. Ladle into warm bowls, add a few drops of sesame oil and black vinegar, scatter with coriander and serve with fried dough sticks to soak in the soup.