Tonkotsu ramenPork bone ramen

• 2 kg4.4 lb pork leg bones (genkotsu), cracked or sawn open by the butcher so the marrow shows
• 1 kg2.2 lb pig's trotters, split; they give the collagen that makes the broth creamy
• 5 l5.3 qt water, plus hot water for topping up
• 1 head of garlic, halved crosswise, optional
• 30 g1 oz fresh ginger, sliced, optional
• 100 ml1/3 cup + 1 tbsp usukuchi (light-coloured) soy sauce, for the tare
• 30 ml2 tbsp sake
• 30 ml2 tbsp mirin
• 5 ga 2 1/2 in square kombu (dried kelp)
• 15 g1 tbsp fine salt
• 4–8 portions (100 g each)4–8 portions (3.5 oz each) very thin straight ramen noodles (Hakata-style), one per bowl, the rest for kaedama refills
• 8–12 slices chashu (braised pork belly or shoulder), thinly sliced
• 4 scallions or thin green onions (banno negi), finely sliced
• 10 g1/3 oz dried kikurage (wood-ear mushrooms), soaked, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp beni shōga (red pickled ginger)
• 2 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds
• 4 tbsp karashi takana (spicy pickled mustard greens), optional, for the table

Method

1. 1

   1. Soak the bones and trotters in cold water for 1 hour, changing the water twice, to draw out the blood.

2. 2

   2. Put them in your largest pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and boil hard for 10 minutes.

3. 3

   3. Drain, then rinse each piece under the tap, scrubbing off the dark scum and any clots; wash the pot too.

4. 4

   4. Return the bones to the clean pot with the 5 litres (5.3 qt) of water and bring to a full, rolling boil over high heat.

5. 5

   5. Keep it at a vigorous boil, lid ajar, for 10 to 12 hours; the hard boil is what breaks down the marrow and collagen and emulsifies the fat into the water. Stir from the bottom every hour and top up with boiling water whenever the bones start to show.

6. 6

   6. Add the garlic and ginger, if using, for the last hour.

7. 7

   7. The broth is ready when it is opaque and milky white, coats a spoon and feels sticky between your fingers; you should have about 2 litres (8 cups).

8. 8

   8. Strain it through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids, and keep it at a simmer.

9. 9

   9. For the tare, warm the soy sauce, sake, mirin and kombu to just below a simmer for 3 minutes, take off the heat, stir in the salt until dissolved and remove the kombu.

10. 10

    10. Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a hard boil and warm the bowls.

11. 11

    11. Put 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of tare in each bowl and pour in about 350 ml (1 1/2 cups) of the boiling-hot broth; taste and adjust.

12. 12

    12. Boil one portion of noodles per bowl very briefly, 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on how firm you want them; Hakata eaters often ask for them hard (katamen) or very hard (barikata).

13. 13

    13. Drain the noodles well, slide them into the bowls and top with chashu, scallions and kikurage.

14. 14

    14. Put beni shōga, sesame and karashi takana on the table for each person to add, and boil the remaining noodles to order as kaedama when someone finishes theirs.