🇫🇷 France · Auvergne (Massif Central)

Soupe aux chouxAuvergne cabbage soup

A country soup of the Auvergne made by simmering salt pork or a ham bone with sausage, carrots, potatoes, onion, leeks and quartered cabbage. It is the broth of the potée, eaten as a first course.

Soupe aux choux (Auvergne cabbage soup)

Origin and history

Soupe aux choux is the broth in which an Auvergne potée of salt pork, cabbage, carrots, turnips and potatoes is cooked, served before the meat; Peter Graham's Mourjou presents it as the first course of the potée meal. The Good Life France ties the region's pork and garden-vegetable dishes, soupe au chou among them, to the hard times of days gone by, and Sancy calls the potée a long-standing winter dish of the Auvergne mountains.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
2 h 30 min
Hands-on
30 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 500 g1.1 lb salt belly of pork (poitrine demi-sel), soaked in cold water for 2 hours, or overnight if heavily salted
  • 1 ham bone or salted pork knuckle (jambonneau demi-sel), soaked with the belly
  • 1 bouquet garni
  • 1 onion, studded with 2 cloves
  • 4 carrots, peeled
  • 4 turnips, peeled
  • 2 leeks, white and pale green, washed and tied in a bundle
  • 600 g1 1/3 lb potatoes, peeled, left whole or halved
  • 1 green cabbage, about 1 kg / 2.2 lb, quartered, outer leaves removed, blanched 5 minutes
  • 2 sausages for boiling (saucisses à cuire), about 300 g / 10 oz
  • salt and pepper, only at the end, after tasting
  • 4 slices rye or country bread, optional, for the bowls

Method

  1. 1. Drain the soaked pork belly and ham bone, put them in a large pot with the bouquet garni and cover with plenty of cold water; do not add salt.

  2. 2. Bring slowly to the boil, skim the grey foam thoroughly, then simmer very gently for 1 hour.

  3. 3. Meanwhile quarter the cabbage, blanch it in boiling water for 5 minutes and drain.

  4. 4. Add the clove-studded onion, carrots, turnips and the sausages to the pot and simmer 20 minutes.

  5. 5. Add the potatoes, the leek bundle and the blanched cabbage quarters, pushing them under the liquid.

  6. 6. Simmer gently for another hour, until the cabbage is soft and the potatoes break when pressed.

  7. 7. Taste the broth and add pepper and, only if needed, salt.

  8. 8. Serve the soup first: ladle broth and some of the vegetables over a slice of bread in each bowl.

  9. 9. Bring the pork, sausages and remaining vegetables to the table afterwards on a platter with mustard.

Notes

  • In Peter Graham's account the soup is the cooking liquid of a potée of salt pork, turnips, carrots, potatoes and cabbage, usually served as the first course of that meal, with leftover broth eaten later as a soup of its own. Blanching the cabbage gives a complex rather than cabbagy broth.
  • The Sancy tourist office serves the meat and vegetables on a platter with mustard and a bowl of broth for purists; next-day broth is poured hot over rye bread, with a local cheese if you like, 'as the old-timers did'.
  • Salt pork varies in saltiness, so taste before salting. Sancy's potée uses pork shoulder and a lightly salted jambonneau or petit salé; Strang uses salt belly and a ham bone or knuckle.
  • Quantities follow Strang's meat (500 g salt belly for 6) and Sancy's vegetables, trimmed for a lighter pot; the broth improves overnight.

Adapted from Jeanne Strang, Goose Fat and Garlic (1991), La soupe aux choux auvergnate, Peter Graham, Mourjou: The Life and Food of an Auvergne Village (1999), Soupe aux choux, and Sancy tourism, Recette: la potée auvergnate.

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