🇯🇵 Japan · Nagasaki (Chinese quarter)

ChamponNagasaki noodle soup

Thick, chewy noodles in a milky chicken-and-pork bone broth, cooked together with stir-fried seafood, kamaboko and vegetables such as cabbage and bean sprouts.

Champon (Nagasaki noodle soup)

Origin and history

Champon is credited to Chen Heijun, a Fuzhou-born man who came to Nagasaki in 1892 and founded the Chinese restaurant Shikairo in 1899. He wanted an inexpensive, filling meal for poor Chinese students, and based it on a Fujian noodle soup, adding Nagasaki's seafood and vegetables, a milky pork-and-chicken broth and lye noodles. It was first listed as shina udon. The origin of the name champon is uncertain: Shikairo traces it to a Fuzhou phrase meaning to eat a meal, and another theory links it to a word for mixing.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
2 h 15 min
Hands-on
45 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 2.6 L11 cups water, for the stock; it reduces to about 1.6 L
  • 500 g1 lb 2 oz pork bones, scalded with boiling water
  • 400 g14 oz chicken bones or carcasses, washed
  • 20 g3/4 oz green part of a leek or scallion, for the stock
  • 10 g1/3 oz ginger, peel is fine, for the stock
  • 1 tbsp sake, for the stock, added once it boils
  • 2 tbsp lard, for stir-frying; neutral oil if you prefer
  • 120 g4 1/4 oz thinly sliced pork belly, cut in 2 cm / 3/4 in widths
  • 60 g2 oz squid, cut in thin strips
  • 60 g2 oz shelled shellfish (clam or oyster meat)
  • 100 g3 1/2 oz small shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 60 g2 oz kamaboko or hanpen (fish cake), thinly sliced
  • 60 g2 oz chikuwa (fish cake tube), thin rounds
  • 60 g2 oz onion, thinly sliced
  • 60 g2 oz boiled bamboo shoot, cut in thin strips
  • 60 g2 oz carrot, cut in thin strips
  • 6 g1/4 oz dried shiitake, soaked, thinly sliced; keep the soaking water
  • 400 ml1 2/3 cups shiitake soaking water
  • 2 dried wood ear (kikurage), soaked and cut in strips
  • 150 g5 1/4 oz cabbage, cut a little coarsely
  • 150 g5 1/4 oz bean sprouts, roots left on
  • 1 leek (nagaimo negi), white part, sliced on the diagonal
  • 18 snow peas, cut in thin diagonal strips
  • 6 portions champon noodles (thick, chewy Chinese noodles made with lye), fresh steamed noodles; fresh thick Chinese noodles also work
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 3 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 2 tbsp sake
  • pepper, a little

Method

  1. 1. Put the water, pork bones, chicken bones, leek green and ginger in a deep pot without a lid. Bring to a boil over high heat, add the sake, turn to medium heat and simmer uncovered for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, skimming. Strain through a cloth-lined sieve and measure 1.6 L (8 Japanese cups); simmer longer if there is more.

  2. 2. Soak the shiitake and wood ear in water, saving the shiitake liquid, and prepare and cut all the other ingredients.

  3. 3. Heat a large wok until very hot and melt the lard in it. Stir-fry the pork until it changes color.

  4. 4. Add the onion, bamboo shoot, carrot, shiitake, wood ear, squid, shellfish, shrimp, kamaboko and chikuwa and stir-fry.

  5. 5. Last, add the cabbage, bean sprouts, leek and snow peas and stir-fry until the vegetables wilt.

  6. 6. Pour in the stock and the shiitake liquid. Season with the salt, soy sauce, sake and pepper and taste.

  7. 7. When it is boiling, push the ingredients aside and add the noodles to the wok, one portion at a time. When a noodle portion is hot, lift it into a deep bowl and add the next.

  8. 8. Top each bowl with its share of the stir-fried ingredients and pour in the hot soup. Serve immediately.

Notes

  • This follows the champon-making material used by Nagasaki for its cooking experiences. The ingredients are stir-fried in lard first and then simmered in the stock, which is the method the Nagasaki material gives; the soup is rich and milky from the pork and chicken bones, not clear.
  • The traditional noodle is thick and chewy and made with lye (touaku), which gives it a chewy, udon-like bite; fresh thick Chinese noodles are the closest substitute. The noodle is not a ramen noodle.
  • A quick home version (2 servings) uses 150 ml milk and 400 ml water with chicken stock granules, sake, oyster sauce, garlic and sugar, with the same stir-fried pork, shrimp, cabbage, sprouts, kamaboko, carrot, onion and shimeji; it gets close to the milky color without the long stock.
  • Sara udon, the same ingredients on crisp fried noodles with a thick sauce, is the stir-fried sibling and is not a soup.

Adapted from Nagasaki, Champon-making experience: ingredients and method for 6 servings (at-nagasaki.jp), Nippon.com, Guide to Japan: Nagasaki champon, and HugKum (Shogakukan), Nagasaki champon with a milk shortcut.

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