🇵🇱 Poland

GrochówkaPolish split pea soup

A thick Polish soup of dried peas cooked with smoked meat or sausage, root vegetables and marjoram; the army field-kitchen version is the best-known form.

Grochówka (Polish split pea soup)

Origin and history

Grochówka is one of the oldest everyday soups of Polish peasant and town cooking: Maria Lemnis and Henryk Vitry's history of Old Polish food names it, with barszcz, rosół, krupnik and kapuśniak, among the soups that opened hearty daily meals. Dried peas were long treated almost like a grain, cheap and filling and useful on fast days. Today it is best known as an army dish ladled from field kitchens, and a Częstochowa version has been on the national List of Traditional Products since 2010.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
2 h 45 min
Hands-on
40 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 400 g2 cups dried yellow split peas (groch łuskany, połówki), rinsed and soaked overnight in plenty of cold water
  • 600 g1.3 lb smoked pork ribs (żeberka wędzone) or a smoked ham hock (golonka), ribs cut into 2-3 pieces
  • 2.5 l10 1/2 cups cold water, plus a little hot water to thin the soup later
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 allspice berries (ziele angielskie)
  • 150 g5 oz smoked bacon (boczek wędzony), diced
  • 200 g7 oz smoked Polish sausage (kiełbasa), optional; sliced into half-moons
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, diced
  • 1 parsley root (pietruszka) or small parsnip, diced
  • 100 g3.5 oz celeriac (celery root), peeled, diced
  • 400 g14 oz potatoes (about 3 medium), peeled, diced
  • 2 tsp dried marjoram (majeranek)
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, at the end

Method

  1. 1. Put the ribs or ham hock in a large heavy pot with the cold water and bring slowly to the boil. Skim off the grey foam as it rises.

  2. 2. Add the bay leaves and allspice, lower the heat and simmer, partly covered, for 45 minutes (about 1 1/2 hours for a ham hock, until the meat starts to come away from the bone).

  3. 3. Drain the soaked peas, add them to the pot and simmer gently for 45-60 minutes, stirring the bottom of the pot now and then, because the peas catch easily. They are ready for the next step when they have begun to break down.

  4. 4. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a dry frying pan over medium heat until its fat runs and the edges turn golden. Add the onion and the sausage and cook for 5 minutes, until the onion is soft.

  5. 5. Add the carrot, parsley root and celeriac to the soup and simmer for 15 minutes.

  6. 6. Add the potatoes, the garlic and the bacon, onion and sausage with their fat. Simmer for 20-25 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender and the peas have collapsed into a thick purée. If the soup becomes too stiff to stir, add a little hot water.

  7. 7. Lift out the ribs or hock, pull the meat off the bones in small pieces and return it to the pot. Discard the bones, skin and bay leaves.

  8. 8. Rub the marjoram between your palms over the pot, season with pepper and only then with salt (the smoked meat is already salty). Simmer for 5 minutes and serve hot, with rye bread.

Notes

  • Total time: 2 h 45 min, plus soaking the peas overnight.
  • Peas: split peas cook to a smooth, thick soup. Some cooks use part whole dried peas, which soften but keep their shape and give a more rustic texture; soak whole peas overnight. Check the packet, as some split peas are sold quick-cooking and need no soaking.
  • Army style (grochówka wojskowa): the soup cooked in field kitchens is very thick and heavy on smoked meat, often with ribs, bacon and kiełbasa together, and is also how it is served at fairs, picnics and festivals. It is a main course rather than a starter.
  • Seasoning: marjoram is the signature herb. Some cooks also add a little lovage and sweet paprika at the end; some thicken the soup further with a roux of flour fried in the bacon fat (zasmażka).
  • Regional form: grochówka po częstochowsku, from the Częstochowa area, is a thick yellow pea soup with carrot, parsley root and potato and a clear garlic note; it is on Poland's List of Traditional Products.
  • Without smoked meat the soup loses its character; for a meatless version, cook the peas in vegetable stock with plenty of onion fried in oil and a pinch of smoked paprika.
  • Make-ahead: grochówka thickens a lot as it cools and is often better the next day. Thin it with hot water when reheating and stir well. It keeps 3 days in the fridge and freezes well.
  • Related: the Dutch split pea soup snert.

Adapted from Polonist, "Grochówka (Polish split pea soup with ham hock)", Smaker, "Grochówka wojskowa", and Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (Poland), List of Traditional Products: "Grochówka po częstochowsku".

At the festivals

Served at 3 festivals in United States and Poland.

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