🇫🇷 France

Potage Saint-GermainFrench pea soup

A classic French pea purée soup, made from fresh green peas or from split peas, puréed and finished with butter, served with fried bread croutons.

Potage Saint-Germain (French pea soup)

Origin and history

Potage Saint-Germain is a classic French pea purée soup. Its name is explained in different ways: one cooking school credits a Count of Saint Germain, minister of war under Louis XIV, who liked fresh and dried peas, while another source repeats a tradition that it was served at the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye; neither is documented. In classic French cooking, Saint-Germain on a menu signals peas. Escoffier (1903) gives Purée Saint-Germain as fresh pea purée, and French catering sheets today use the name for split-pea purée.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 45 min
Hands-on
35 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 400 g2 cups (14 oz) green split peas, rinsed; soaking is optional
  • 2 onions, each studded with 2 cloves
  • 1 bouquet garni, bay, thyme, parsley stems
  • 1.5 litres6 cups cold water, or light chicken stock
  • 50 g3 1/2 tbsp butter, 30 g to enrich the purée, 20 g for the croutons
  • 4 slices white sandwich bread (pain de mie), crusts removed, cut into small cubes
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • small bunch flat-leaf parsley or chervil, chopped

Method

  1. 1. Put the split peas, clove-studded onions and bouquet garni in a large pot and cover with the cold water.

  2. 2. Bring slowly to the boil, skim off the foam and reduce to a simmer.

  3. 3. Cook about 1 hour 15 minutes, until the peas fall apart when pressed, seasoning with salt halfway through.

  4. 4. While the peas cook, fry the bread cubes in 20 g of the butter over medium heat, turning, until golden and crisp; drain and keep aside.

  5. 5. Remove the bouquet garni and the cloves from the onions.

  6. 6. Purée the peas and onions with their liquid until smooth, adding hot water if too thick, and pass through a sieve if you want it silky.

  7. 7. Reheat gently and stir in the remaining 30 g of butter until melted; taste for salt and pepper.

  8. 8. Serve in deep bowls topped with the croutons and herbs.

Notes

  • The parent recipe here is the split-pea form, which a French catering-school sheet (Interfel) lists as purée de pois cassés, also called purée Saint-Germain; it keeps all year. The form Escoffier gives under Purée Saint-Germain is the fresh-pea one, made with fresh spring peas and finished with butter; it is lighter and brighter green.
  • Cooks use the name loosely: Little and Whittington say any recipe with Saint-Germain or Clamart in the title contains peas, and note that a little fresh or frozen petits pois stirred in improves the colour and flavour of a split-pea version. A fresh-pea version with potato also exists.
  • The French Cooking Academy version starts with diced carrot, onion, leek and pork belly sweated in butter and adds garlic; the catering sheet keeps to clove-studded onions and a bouquet garni, as here.
  • Thickens on standing; thin with hot water when reheating.

Adapted from Interfel (French fruit and vegetable interprofession), Fiche 10: Purée de pois cassés (purée Saint-Germain), The French Cooking Academy, Potage Saint Germain, and Alastair Little and Richard Whittington, The Daily Mail Modern British Cookbook (1998), Potage Saint-Germain.

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