Seafood chowder

• 500 g1.1 lb mussels, scrubbed and debearded; discard any that stay open when tapped
• 100 mlscant ½ cup dry white wine or water, for opening the mussels
• 30 g2 tbsp butter
• 100 g3.5 oz smoked streaky bacon, optional; diced
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 1 medium leek, white and pale green part, cleaned and sliced
• 2 sticks2 stalks celery, finely diced
• 1 garlic clove, chopped
• 2 sprigs thyme, plus 1 bay leaf
• 600 g1.3 lb floury potatoes, peeled, cut into 1.5 cm (½ in) dice
• 750 ml3 cups fish stock
• 400 ml1⅔ cups whole milk
• 200 ml¾ cup + 1 tbsp double (heavy) cream
• 300 g10.5 oz firm white fish (hake, haddock, cod or pollock), skinned and boned, in 3 cm (1¼ in) chunks
• 200 g7 oz undyed smoked haddock or smoked coley, skinned and boned, in chunks
• 200 g7 oz salmon fillet, skinned, in chunks
• 150 g5 oz raw prawns or Dublin Bay prawns (langoustine tails), or scallops, peeled
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley, chives or dill
• salt and white or black pepper, to taste
• brown soda bread and butter, to serve

Method

1. 1

   1. Put the mussels and wine in a large pan, cover and steam over high heat for 3–4 minutes, shaking the pan, until the shells open.

2. 2

   2. Tip the mussels into a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquor; discard any that stayed closed and pick most of the rest from their shells, keeping a few in the shell for garnish.

3. 3

   3. Strain the mussel liquor through a fine sieve or a cloth to remove any grit.

4. 4

   4. Melt the butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat and fry the bacon, if using, for 4–5 minutes until the fat runs.

5. 5

   5. Add the onion, leek, celery, garlic, thyme and bay leaf and cook gently for 8–10 minutes, until soft and sweet but not coloured.

6. 6

   6. Add the potatoes and stir for a minute to coat them in the butter.

7. 7

   7. Pour in the fish stock and the strained mussel liquor, bring to the boil, then simmer for 10–12 minutes, until the potatoes are just tender at the edges.

8. 8

   8. Add the milk and cream and bring back to a gentle simmer, without boiling hard.

9. 9

   9. Season the white fish, smoked fish, salmon and prawns, add them to the pot and push them under the liquid.

10. 10

    10. Poach at the barest simmer for 4–5 minutes, until the fish is opaque and starting to flake and the prawns are pink; stir only once or twice so the fish stays in chunks.

11. 11

    11. Return the mussels to the pot to warm through for a minute, remove the thyme and bay leaf and season with salt and pepper.

12. 12

    12. Ladle into warm bowls, scatter with herbs and serve with brown soda bread and butter.