Clam chowder

• 2.7 kg6 lb small quahogs or large cherrystone clams (hard-shell clams), scrubbed; discard any that stay open when tapped
• 500 ml2 cups water, for steaming the clams
• 115 g4 oz salt pork, rind removed, cut in 1 cm (1/3 in) dice
• 15 g1 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 medium onions (about 300 g / 10 oz), cut in 1 cm (1/3 in) dice
• 2 celery ribs, diced; optional
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped
• 900 g2 lb all-purpose potatoes such as Yukon Gold, peeled, cut in 1.5 cm (1/2 in) dice
• bottled clam juice or water, only if needed to make up the broth
• black pepper, freshly ground, to taste; salt only if needed
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley and chives, chopped
• oyster crackers or common crackers, to serve

Method

1. 1

   1. Bring the water to a boil in a large pot, add the clams, cover tightly and steam over high heat for 5 minutes.

2. 2

   2. Stir the clams, cover again and steam 5 to 10 minutes more, until most have opened; take the pot off the heat rather than wait for every last one.

3. 3

   3. Lift out the clams, then pour the broth into a tall jug and leave it 10 minutes so the sand settles to the bottom.

4. 4

   4. Pour the broth off carefully through a fine sieve or a coffee filter, leaving the last gritty centimetre behind. Measure it and make it up to 1.2 litres (5 cups) with bottled clam juice or water.

5. 5

   5. Pry the clams from their shells (open stubborn ones with a knife), cut the meat into 1 cm (1/2 in) pieces and keep it covered in the fridge.

6. 6

   6. In a heavy soup pot over low heat, cook the salt pork until it has given up its fat and turned crisp and golden, then lift it out with a slotted spoon and keep it for garnish.

7. 7

   7. Add the butter, onions, celery, bay and thyme to the fat and cook gently, stirring, for about 10 minutes, until the onions are soft and translucent but not browned.

8. 8

   8. Add the potatoes and the clam broth; the liquid should just cover them. Bring to a boil and cook briskly, covered, for about 10 minutes, until the potatoes are soft outside but still firm in the centre.

9. 9

   9. Press a few potato pieces against the side of the pot with a spoon and cook 1 to 2 minutes more so their starch gives the broth a little body.

10. 10

    10. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the chopped clams; their heat in the hot broth is enough to cook them without making them tough. Season with pepper and taste for salt (it rarely needs any).

11. 11

    11. Let the chowder stand for up to an hour for the flavours to meld, then reheat gently without boiling.

12. 12

    12. Ladle into bowls, sharing out clams and potatoes evenly, remove the bay leaves, and scatter over parsley, chives and the salt-pork cracklings. Serve with crackers.