🇦🇷 Argentina, 🇺🇾 Uruguay, and 🇵🇾 Paraguay · Río de la Plata and the Paraná Litoral (Entre Ríos, Corrientes, Santa Fe); Paraguay

ChupínArgentine fish stew

A Rioplatense fish stew-soup of river fish (in the Litoral: surubí, dorado, armado) or sea fish (on the Buenos Aires coast and in Uruguay: hake, corvina), with onion, pepper, tomato and potato, a descendant of the Ligurian ciuppin carried by Italian immigrants.

Chupín (Argentine fish stew)

Origin and history

Chupín is the Río de la Plata descendant of ciuppin, the fish soup of the Ligurian Riviera that Italian emigrants carried to Argentina and Uruguay; as the Uruguayan food writer Ángel Ruocco put it, the Ligurian ciuppin became the criollo chupín. Along the Paraná, in Entre Ríos, Santa Fe and Corrientes, it became a river-fish dish of surubí, dorado or armado, cooked for long family meals with music into the night. Some writers link its name to the Andean chupe instead.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 30 min
Hands-on
35 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 1.2 kg2.6 lb firm fish: surubí, dorado, armado or patí (river fish); or hake (merluza) or corvina, cut into thick steaks or large pieces
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • 3 tbsp olive oil or sunflower oil
  • 2 large (about 300 g)2 large (about 10.5 oz) onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 red bell pepper (morrón), cut in thin strips
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 125 ml½ cup dry white wine
  • 500 g1.1 lb ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 125 ml½ cup tomato purée (passata)
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika (pimentón)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 600 g1.3 lb potatoes, peeled, cut in 2 cm (¾ in) chunks
  • 750 ml3 cups fish stock or water, hot
  • salt and black pepper, to taste
  • 3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 6 slices crusty bread, toasted and rubbed with garlic, to serve

Method

  1. 1. Season the fish with salt, pepper and the lemon juice and refrigerate it for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

  2. 2. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pot over medium-low heat and cook the onions, pepper and garlic for about 10 minutes, until soft and sweet but not browned.

  3. 3. Pour in the wine and let it bubble for 2 minutes, until the smell of alcohol fades.

  4. 4. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée, paprika, bay leaf and oregano and cook for 5 minutes, until the tomatoes start to break down.

  5. 5. Add the potatoes and the hot stock, season lightly, cover and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until the potatoes are half cooked.

  6. 6. Lay the fish on top in a single layer, pushing it down so it is half covered by the broth.

  7. 7. Cover and cook on low heat for 12–15 minutes without stirring (shake the pot gently instead, so the fish stays whole), until the fish is opaque and flakes and the potatoes are tender.

  8. 8. Taste the broth and adjust the salt and pepper.

  9. 9. Put a slice of garlic toast in each deep plate, lay fish and potatoes on top, ladle over plenty of broth and scatter with parsley.

Notes

  • In the Litoral (the river provinces of Entre Ríos, Santa Fe and Corrientes) chupín is made with fresh river fish: surubí, dorado, armado or patí. An Entre Ríos family tip is to roll the fillets and pin them with a toothpick so they hold their shape. On the coast of Buenos Aires province and in Uruguay it is made with sea fish such as hake or corvina.
  • Ligurian ciuppin, its ancestor, is usually passed through a food mill into a smooth soup; Rioplatense chupín keeps the fish and vegetables in pieces and is served over garlic toast.
  • Chupín is thick and stew-like, but it is eaten from a deep plate with plenty of broth, and bread to mop it up. Some cooks serve it with fettuccine instead of bread.
  • Add a fresh chilli with the onions for heat. Some cooks leave out the potatoes and cook the fish directly in the tomato broth.
  • Do not confuse it with the Peruvian chupe, a creamy soup with milk and cheese; the Argentine cookery writer Petrona C. de Gandulfo kept the two dishes apart.
  • Any firm white fish with some fat works (cod, haddock, catfish, monkfish). Delicate fillets break up; add them only for the last 6–8 minutes.

Adapted from Aire de Santa Fe: Cómo hacer chupín de pescado, Crónica: Cómo preparar un chupín de pescado, and Bichos de Campo (Mario Ascurri): Sabores y saberes entre el chupín entrerriano de pescado y el chupe limeño.

At the festivals

Served at 1 festival in Paraguay.

Earlier editions

  • August 04, 2024

    🇵🇾 San Antonio, Paraguay

    IV Festival Nacional del Pirá Caldo

    On the menu as Chupín de surubí and Chupín de moncholo

    By Herminia Sanabria, Pira Gourmet El Gato

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