🇫🇷 France · Provence

Soupe de poissonsProvençal fish soup

The Provençal fish soup: small bony Mediterranean rockfish (rascasse, girelle and the like) simmered with onion, fennel, tomato, garlic, saffron and olive oil, then blended and strained, and served with garlic croûtons, grated cheese and rouille.

Soupe de poissons (Provençal fish soup)

Origin and history

A Provençal soup of the Marseille fishermen, made from the small rockfish that could not be sold at market and served with garlic-rubbed croûtons. The Marseille tourist office describes it as a family soup with each cook keeping a secret, and it is eaten with rouille, the garlicky chili sauce. Sources give no date; it is a close relative of bouillabaisse but a separate, smoother dish.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 45 min
Hands-on
50 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 1.5 kg3.3 lb small rockfish (rascasse, girelle, vive, vieille) and similar, scaled, gutted and cut in pieces; scorpion fish, small wrasse, gurnard, whiting or sea bream can substitute
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 1 leek, chopped
  • 1 bulb fennel, chopped, with a few fronds kept
  • 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped; or 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 80 ml1/3 cup olive oil
  • 1 bouquet garni, bay, thyme, parsley and a strip of dried orange peel
  • 1 pinch saffron threads
  • 2.5 L2 1/2 qt hot water
  • 2 tbsp pastis, optional
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 3 garlic cloves, for the rouille
  • 1 small red chili, for the rouille, or a pinch of cayenne
  • 1 egg yolk, for the rouille
  • 1 slice white bread, crumb only, for the rouille
  • 100 mlscant 1/2 cup olive oil, for the rouille
  • 1 baguette bread for croûtons, sliced, toasted and rubbed with a garlic clove
  • 100 g3.5 oz (1 cup) grated gruyère, to serve

Method

  1. 1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat and soften the onions, leek and fennel for about 8 minutes, without browning.

  2. 2. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, then add the fish, bouquet garni, pastis if using it, salt and pepper, and stir for 5 minutes.

  3. 3. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil and simmer for 45 minutes, until the fish has fallen apart completely.

  4. 4. Remove the bouquet garni, then blend everything with an immersion blender, or work it through a food mill, until the bones and heads are crushed.

  5. 5. Pass the soup through a fine sieve (chinois), pressing hard on the solids to extract all the juices, then discard the residue.

  6. 6. Return the strained soup to a clean pot with the saffron and simmer for 15 minutes. Adjust the salt and pepper.

  7. 7. For the rouille, pound the garlic and chili in a mortar, add the bread crumb moistened with a spoonful of the hot soup and the egg yolk, then whisk in the oil in a thin stream as for mayonnaise, until thick.

  8. 8. Serve the soup very hot with the garlic-rubbed croûtons, the rouille and the grated cheese in separate bowls. Each diner spreads rouille on a croûton, floats it in the soup and sprinkles cheese over.

Notes

  • The soup of the family kitchen and of fishermen who made it from the rockfish they could not sell, in the Marseille tradition. The fish is crushed and strained, so the soup is smooth and the broth strong; no whole fish reaches the table, which is what separates it from bouillabaisse, a related dish served with whole fish.
  • The more bony and spiny small rockfish give the most flavour, and Marseille cooks add conger eel and small crabs. Do not use oily fish like mackerel or sardines. Ask the fishmonger for scorpion fish and small rock fish, and use whole fish, heads included.
  • Rouille is variously made as a bread-and-garlic emulsion with chili (the Luberon method here) or as a saffron mayonnaise with a hot pepper, and either is traditional.
  • Some families marinate the fish and aromatics (with fennel, bay, orange peel and pastis) for a couple of hours before cooking, which deepens the flavour.
  • The soup freezes well, without the rouille and croûtons. This is the Provençal soup of the plural name soupe de poissons; a soupe de poisson on a French menu may be something else.

Adapted from Office de Tourisme de Marseille: La soupe de poissons and Luberon.fr: Soupe de poissons.

At the festivals

Served at 3 festivals in Netherlands and France.

Earlier editions

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