🇪🇸 Spain and 🇦🇩 Andorra · Catalonia (also Valencian Community, Andorra)

Escudella i carn d'ollaCatalan meat and vegetable soup

A Catalan meat-and-vegetable pot served in two parts: the escudella proper (broth with pasta, rice or both), then the carn d'olla (the boiled meats and vegetables) on a platter. The pilota, a large spiced meatball, is characteristic.

Escudella i carn d'olla (Catalan meat and vegetable soup)

Origin and history

One of Catalonia's oldest dishes: the name comes from the bowl in which the soup was ladled out in the Middle Ages, and Francesc Eiximenis recorded it in the 14th century as the Catalans' common dish. Its classic two-course form was fixed by the 18th century and printed in La cuynera catalana (1835), and in 19th-century Barcelona it became the bourgeois Christmas meal. Galets are the latest addition, probably of the late 19th or early 20th century.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings (soup course and meat course)
Total time
4 h
Hands-on
50 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 150 g3/4 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight; a mesh bag keeps them together
  • 500 g1.1 lb veal or beef brisket or rib (pit or costella de vedella), in one piece
  • 300 g10 oz lamb or mutton breast, the fourth meat of the Christmas version; optional
  • 1/4 boiling hen or chicken, a leg and thigh piece
  • 1 pig's trotter (peu de porc), split; a piece of pig's ear or snout may join it
  • 1 ham bone (os de pernil)
  • 1 beef marrow or knee bone (os blanc)
  • 100 g3 1/2 oz cansalada (salt pork belly), in one or two slices
  • 4 l4 1/4 qt cold water
  • 2 carrots, peeled, whole
  • 1 leek, cleaned, whole
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 turnip (nap), peeled
  • 1 parsnip (xirivia), peeled
  • 1/2 green or savoy cabbage, in one or two wedges
  • 4 medium potatoes, peeled, whole or halved
  • 1-2 botifarra blanca (white Catalan sausage)
  • 1-2 botifarra negra (Catalan blood sausage)
  • salt, to taste
  • 150 g5 oz minced veal or beef, for the pilota
  • 150 g5 oz minced pork, for the pilota
  • 1 egg, for the pilota
  • 1 garlic clove, for the pilota, very finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp parsley, for the pilota, chopped
  • 40 g1 1/2 oz bread crumb (molla de pa), for the pilota, soaked in a little milk and squeezed
  • 2 tbsp flour, for coating the pilota
  • salt and black pepper, for the pilota
  • 250 g9 oz galets (large pasta shells); or rice, or thick fideus, galets at Christmas

Method

  1. 1. Put the brisket, lamb, hen, trotter, ham bone, marrow bone and cansalada in a very large pot, cover with the cold water and bring slowly to the boil.

  2. 2. Skim off the grey foam as it rises, several times, until the surface stays clear, then lower the heat so the pot only trembles.

  3. 3. After 1 hour, add the drained chickpeas (in their bag, if using one). Keep the simmer gentle and skim off fat now and then.

  4. 4. After a second hour, add the carrots, leek, celery, turnip and parsnip.

  5. 5. Meanwhile, make the pilota: mix the two minced meats with the egg, garlic, parsley, soaked bread, salt and pepper, working it by hand until it holds together. Shape it into one large oval and roll it in flour.

  6. 6. After the third hour, add the cabbage, potatoes and pilota, and season the broth with salt. Simmer 30 minutes more.

  7. 7. Add both botifarres for the last 10 minutes, so they heat through without bursting.

  8. 8. Check that the chickpeas are tender and the meat comes away from the bones. Lift out all the meats and vegetables with a slotted spoon and keep them warm, covered, with a ladle of broth.

  9. 9. Strain the broth into a clean pot and bring it back to the boil.

  10. 10. Cook the galets in a separate pot of salted water until 2 minutes short of done, drain, and finish them in the boiling broth so the broth does not cloud or reduce.

  11. 11. Serve the escudella first: broth and galets in soup plates.

  12. 12. Then bring the carn d'olla to the table on a platter: the meats, the pilota and botifarres cut in thick slices, the vegetables, potatoes and chickpeas.

Notes

  • Total time: 4 h, plus overnight soaking.
  • There are as many escudelles as Catalan households. The everyday country form, escudella barrejada or escudella de pagès, is served all together in one bowl: broth with the meats, vegetables and pasta or rice mixed in. The Christmas form (escudella de Nadal) is the two-course meal above, with four meats, the pilota and galets; its first course is what Catalans call sopa de galets.
  • Before galets became the Christmas pasta, the broth was eaten with rice, thick fideus or, on feast days, macaroni, sometimes with grated cheese. Many families still cook it that way the rest of the winter.
  • Christmas galets are big: four or five per plate. Some cooks stuff them with a little of the pilota mixture before cooking.
  • Older and poorer pilotes were made from cansalada and bread rather than minced meat.
  • Regional relatives include the Empordà's escudella de malalt, the Priorat's olla de fenoll, the Berguedà's escudella de blat de moro escairat (hulled corn), the ollada of Northern Catalonia and the Valencian putxero and olla.
  • Make the broth a day ahead if you like: chill it, lift off the set fat, and reheat the meats in a little broth. Leftover meats become croquetes or the Boxing Day canelons.
  • Related: garbure (Gascony) and the Portuguese sopa da pedra are other one-pot meat and vegetable soups.

Adapted from Ajuntament de Barcelona, Cultura Popular, "Escudella de Nadal", Maria Nicolau (via VilaWeb), on escudella and its regional forms, and Oli, sal i pebre, "Escudella i carn d'olla".

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