Gumbo

• 1.5 kg3.3 lb chicken, cut into 10 pieces, or bone-in thighs and drumsticks
• 150 g5 oz smoked ham, diced
• 450 g1 lb okra, fresh or frozen, sliced into 1 cm (1/2 in) rounds
• 150 ml2/3 cup vegetable oil or lard, divided
• 70 g1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for the roux
• 2 onions, chopped (about 2 cups)
• 2 ribs celery, chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1 green bell pepper, chopped (about 1 cup)
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 400 g14 oz ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped, juice kept; or one can of chopped tomatoes
• 2 l8 1/2 cups chicken stock or water, hot
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 tsp dried
• salt, black pepper and cayenne, to taste; season boldly
• 4 green onions, sliced
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 300 g1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice, boiled separately, to serve
• filé powder (ground sassafras leaves), optional, at the table

Method

1. 1

   1. Season the chicken all over with salt, black pepper and a little cayenne.

2. 2

   2. In a large heavy pot, heat 2 tbsp of the oil over medium-high heat and brown the chicken in batches, 6-8 minutes per batch, then the ham for 2 minutes. Lift everything out onto a plate.

3. 3

   3. In a skillet, heat another 2 tbsp of oil over medium-high heat and fry the okra, stirring often, for 10-15 minutes, until it no longer forms sticky threads. Set aside.

4. 4

   4. Make the roux: add the remaining oil to the pot, lower the heat to medium and whisk in the flour. Stir constantly with a flat-edged spoon or whisk for 20-30 minutes, until it turns the colour of milk chocolate and smells toasty. If you see black specks, it has burnt: start again.

5. 5

   5. Add the onions, celery and green pepper to the roux. This stops the roux from darkening further. Cook, stirring, for 6-8 minutes until soft, then add the garlic for 1 minute.

6. 6

   6. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice and cook for 5 minutes.

7. 7

   7. Pour in the hot stock a ladleful at a time, stirring so the roux dissolves smoothly, and bring to the boil.

8. 8

   8. Return the chicken and ham to the pot with the okra, bay leaves and thyme. Lower the heat, half-cover and simmer gently for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, skimming off fat from time to time, until the chicken is falling from the bone.

9. 9

   9. Remove the bay leaves and thyme stems. If you like, lift out the chicken, pull the meat from the bones and return it to the pot. Season boldly with salt, pepper and cayenne.

10. 10

    10. Stir in the green onions and parsley.

11. 11

    11. Put a mound of rice in each bowl and ladle the gumbo over it. If you are using filé, sprinkle a little on each serving off the heat. Never boil gumbo after the filé goes in.