🇭🇺 Hungary · Danube and Tisza river regions, Pannonian Plain

HalászléHungarian fish soup

Hungarian river-fish soup, strongly red with paprika, built on onion and a stock of fish trimmings with carp and other freshwater fish, traditionally cooked in a bogrács over a fire.

Halászlé (Hungarian fish soup)

Origin and history

Fishermen on the Danube and Tisza cooked river fish with onion and paprika in a kettle, and the dish reached town kitchens in the 19th century. The earliest known printed recipe, 'halpaprikás halászosan' (fish paprikash, fisherman's way), is in Rézi néni's Szegedi szakácskönyv of 1871. Regional schools grew up along the Danube, the Tisza and Lake Balaton; Bajai halászlé (2015) and Tiszai halászlé are listed in the Hungarikum Collection.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
1 h 30 min
Hands-on
35 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 2 kg4.4 lb whole carp (ponty), scaled and gutted; body cut crosswise into 3 cm steaks, head (gills removed), tail and fins kept
  • 2 tbsp sunflower oil or lard
  • 2 (about 250 g)2 (about 9 oz) yellow onions, finely chopped
  • 1 Hungarian wax pepper (TV paprika) or other mild green pepper, seeded and diced
  • 1 ripe tomato, diced
  • 3 tbsp Hungarian sweet ground paprika (édesnemes fűszerpaprika), divided
  • ½–1 tsp hot ground paprika, to taste
  • 2.5 l10.5 cups water
  • salt, about 1 tbsp in total
  • 2–3 hot cherry peppers (cseresznyepaprika), optional, whole
  • white bread, to serve

Method

  1. 1. Salt the carp steaks lightly on both sides and refrigerate while you make the stock.

  2. 2. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat and soften the onion for 8–10 minutes, until translucent but not browned.

  3. 3. Add the green pepper and tomato and cook for 3–4 minutes more, until the tomato collapses.

  4. 4. Take the pot off the heat, stir in 1 tbsp of the sweet paprika so it does not scorch, then add the carp head, tail and fins.

  5. 5. Pour in the water, bring to the boil, skim off the foam and simmer, half-covered, for 40 minutes.

  6. 6. Strain the stock through a sieve into a clean, wide pot, discarding the bones and vegetables.

  7. 7. Bring the stock back to the boil and stir in the remaining sweet paprika, the hot paprika and the cherry peppers if using.

  8. 8. Lay in the carp steaks in a single layer and cook at a brisk simmer for 15–20 minutes without stirring, shaking the pot now and then, until the flesh lifts easily from the bone.

  9. 9. Season with salt; the broth should be clear, glowing red and lightly peppery.

  10. 10. Serve two or three pieces of carp per bowl with plenty of broth, bread alongside and the cherry peppers for anyone who wants more heat.

Notes

  • This parent recipe is the everyday stovetop halászlé made in Hungarian homes, especially on Christmas Eve: carp only, a short stock of head and tail, strained clear. The three regional schools each have their own page. Szegedi (Tisza) halászlé uses several fish species and presses the stock of trimmings and onion through a sieve into a thick base; Bajai (Danube) halászlé is never strained and is eaten over gyufatészta (matchstick pasta); Balatoni halászlé mixes lake fish and finishes with white wine.
  • Add the roe and milt of the carp for the last 5–10 minutes if your fish has them.
  • For more body without the full Szeged method, add a few small whole fish (bream) or a piece of catfish to the stock pot. Sea fish are not traditional and change the flavour.
  • Use real Hungarian paprika; Spanish smoked paprika gives a different soup. Never let paprika fry on high heat, or it turns bitter.
  • Outdoors the soup is cooked in a bogrács (kettle) over a hot wood fire; the hard boil binds the fish fat into the broth.
  • In Croatian Slavonia and Baranja the same dish is called fiš paprikaš and is eaten with wide homemade noodles.
  • Leftovers set to a jelly in the fridge because carp is rich in gelatine; reheat gently or eat cold.

Adapted from Pénzcentrum / HelloVidék: Eredeti halászlé recept (szegedi, bajai, balatoni), Hungarikum Collection: Tiszai halászlé and Bajai halászlé (Hungarikum Committee), and Origo Tafelspicc: szegedi vagy bajai halászlé.

Variants

At the festivals

Served at 12 festivals in Croatia, Hungary, and Austria.

Earlier editions

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