PhởVietnamese noodle soup

• 2.5 kg5.5 lb beef marrow and knuckle bones (xương ống), cut into pieces by the butcher
• 700 g1.5 lb beef brisket or flank (nạm, gầu), in one or two pieces, to cook in the broth
• 5.5 l5.8 qt water, plus more for blanching
• 2 (about 400 g)2 (about 14 oz) yellow onions, unpeeled
• 100 g3.5 oz fresh ginger, one large knob, unpeeled
• 5 star anise (hoa hồi)
• 1 cinnamon or cassia stick (quế), about 8 cm (3 in)
• 2 black cardamom pods (thảo quả), lightly cracked
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
• 4 whole cloves, optional
• 1 tbsp salt, plus more to taste
• 25 g1 oz yellow rock sugar, or 1½ tbsp sugar
• 4–5 tbsp fish sauce (nước mắm), added near the end
• 1 kg fresh or 450 g dried2.2 lb fresh or 1 lb dried flat rice noodles (bánh phở), about 5 mm (¼ in) wide
• 300 g10.5 oz beef sirloin or eye of round, partly frozen, sliced paper-thin across the grain, to serve raw (tái)
• 1 small white onion, sliced paper-thin and soaked in cold water for 20 minutes
• 6 spring onions, green parts in thin rings, white parts halved
• 1 small bunch coriander (cilantro) leaves, roughly chopped
• lime wedges, sliced fresh red chilli, black pepper, to serve
• Thai basil (húng quế), sawtooth coriander (ngò gai) and bean sprouts, optional, southern-style table plate

Method

1. 1

   1. Put the bones in a large stockpot, cover with cold water, bring to a hard boil for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse the bones and the pot to remove the scum.

2. 2

   2. Char the onions and ginger directly over a gas flame or under a hot grill, turning them, for 10–15 minutes, until blackened in patches and softened.

3. 3

   3. Rinse off the burnt skin under warm water, trim the onions and slice the ginger thickly.

4. 4

   4. Return the bones to the clean pot with the 5.5 l water, the salt and the rock sugar and bring slowly to the boil.

5. 5

   5. Skim off all the foam, then add the brisket and lower the heat until the surface barely trembles.

6. 6

   6. Simmer uncovered and without stirring, skimming from time to time; after about 1 hour 15 minutes, when the brisket is tender but still holds together, lift it out, plunge it into cold water for 10 minutes and refrigerate.

7. 7

   7. Toast the star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander seeds and cloves in a dry pan for 2 minutes, until fragrant, and tie them in a muslin bag.

8. 8

   8. Add the spice bag and the charred onion and ginger to the pot and keep the broth at a bare simmer for another 3 hours, about 4 hours 30 minutes in all.

9. 9

   9. Strain the broth through a fine sieve, skim off as much fat as you like, and season it with the fish sauce and more salt; it should taste slightly too salty, since the noodles and meat are unseasoned.

10. 10

    10. Soak dried noodles in warm water for 20 minutes, or rinse fresh ones; just before serving, dip each portion in boiling water for 10–20 seconds and drain into a large bowl.

11. 11

    11. Slice the cold brisket thinly and arrange it over the noodles with the raw beef slices, spring onion, drained white onion and coriander.

12. 12

    12. Bring the broth to a rolling boil and ladle it over each bowl so it cooks the raw beef; serve at once with lime, chilli and black pepper.