🇹🇼 Taiwan · Kaohsiung/Taipei, post-1949

Taiwanese beef noodle soup

Taiwanese noodle soup of wheat noodles, braised beef (shank, tendon or brisket) and a long-simmered beef broth, with pickled mustard greens and scallions.

Taiwanese beef noodle soup

Origin and history

Beef was little eaten in agrarian Taiwan, where cattle worked the fields. Beef noodle soup took shape after 1949, when Nationalist soldiers and their families arrived from the mainland; the historian Lu Yao-tung traced the red-braised style to Sichuanese veterans at the Gangshan air base in Kaohsiung, who made their own chili bean paste. US aid flour spread noodle eating, and the dish moved from military villages to Taipei and became a national favourite.

Make it at home

Makes
6 servings
Total time
3 h 15 min
Hands-on
45 min

Ingredients

Units
  • 1.2 kg2.6 lb beef shank (牛腱, niújiàn), or shank and tendon mixed, cut in 4 to 5 cm (1 1/2 to 2 in) chunks
  • 2 tbsp vegetable or peanut oil
  • 6 slices fresh ginger, about 3 mm (1/8 in) thick
  • 6 cloves garlic, smashed
  • 3 scallions, cut in 5 cm (2 in) lengths
  • 1 ripe tomato, cut in wedges
  • 1 1/2 tbsp doubanjiang (spicy fermented bean paste, ideally Taiwanese Gangshan style)
  • 1 tbsp (15 g)1 tbsp rock sugar or white sugar
  • 120 ml1/2 cup Taiwanese rice wine (米酒) or Shaoxing wine
  • 100 mlscant 1/2 cup light soy sauce
  • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce, for colour
  • 2 star anise
  • 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
  • 2.5 l10 1/2 cups water
  • 600 g1.3 lb fresh wheat noodles, medium or wide, or 400 g / 14 oz dried
  • 6 small heads baby bok choy or other leafy greens, halved
  • 150 g5 oz suan cai (pickled mustard greens, 酸菜), rinsed, chopped, stir-fried with 1 tsp oil and a pinch of sugar
  • 2 scallions, thinly sliced, to serve
  • chili oil and salt, to taste

Method

  1. 1. Put the beef in a pot of cold water, bring it to a boil and boil for 3 minutes. Drain, rinse the meat under running water and wash the pot; this keeps the broth clean.

  2. 2. Heat the oil in the clean pot over medium heat and fry the ginger, garlic and scallions for 1 minute, until fragrant.

  3. 3. Add the tomato and cook for 2 minutes, until it softens. Stir in the doubanjiang and fry for 1 minute, until the oil turns red.

  4. 4. Add the beef and sugar and stir for 3 minutes to coat the meat.

  5. 5. Pour in the rice wine and let it bubble for a minute, scraping the bottom. Add both soy sauces, the star anise, the Sichuan peppercorns and the water.

  6. 6. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then cover and simmer very gently for 2 1/2 hours, until a chopstick slides easily into the shank (tendon, if used, should be soft and translucent).

  7. 7. Taste the broth: it should be savoury, slightly sweet and gently spicy. Add salt or a splash of water to balance it, and fish out the star anise.

  8. 8. Cook the noodles in a large pot of unsalted boiling water until just tender, adding the bok choy for the last minute. Drain.

  9. 9. Divide the noodles and greens among large bowls, pile the beef on top and ladle over the hot broth.

  10. 10. Finish with sliced scallions and serve with the suan cai and chili oil on the table.

Notes

  • Two styles dominate in Taiwan: hongshao (紅燒, red-braised), built on soy sauce and doubanjiang, and qingdun (清燉, clear-stewed), a clear broth of long-simmered beef and bones seasoned with little more than ginger, rice wine and salt. The site has a page and full recipe for each. This is the everyday home pot, a lighter red-braised soup.
  • Cuts: shank is the classic; 'half tendon, half meat' (半筋半肉) is the most common order in shops. Tendon needs about 30 minutes longer than shank. Tripe and other offal are also served.
  • Suan cai is the essential condiment: its sour crunch cuts the richness of the broth. Look for it in vacuum packs at Asian grocers; rinse it to remove excess salt.
  • Noodles: wide or knife-cut noodles hold the broth and stay chewy; thinner noodles give a lighter bowl. Always cook them separately so the broth stays clear.
  • Make-ahead: the beef and broth keep 3 days in the fridge and taste better the next day. Lift off the fat, reheat, and cook the noodles fresh.

Adapted from Cathy Erway, The Food of Taiwan: Recipes from the Beautiful Island (Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup) and Michelin Guide Taiwan, 經典美味:牛肉麵.

Variants

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