New England clam chowder

• 2.7 kg6 lb small quahogs or large cherrystone clams, scrubbed; discard any that stay open when tapped
• 500 ml2 cups water, for steaming the clams
• 115 g4 oz salt pork, rind removed, cut in 1 cm (1/3 in) dice
• 30 g2 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 medium onions (about 300 g / 10 oz), cut in 1 cm (1/3 in) dice
• 1 celery rib, diced; optional
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped; optional
• 900 g2 lb all-purpose potatoes such as Yukon Gold, peeled, cut in 1.5 cm (1/2 in) dice
• bottled clam juice or water, only if needed to make up the broth
• 360 ml1 1/2 cups heavy cream, or 480 ml (2 cups) light cream or whole milk for a thinner chowder
• 4 common crackers or pilot crackers, optional, crushed, for thickening
• black or white pepper, freshly ground, to taste; salt only if needed
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley and chives, chopped
• oyster crackers or common crackers, to serve

Method

1. 1

   1. Bring the water to a boil in a large pot, add the clams, cover tightly and steam over high heat for about 10 minutes, stirring once halfway, until most have opened.

2. 2

   2. Lift out the clams and pour the broth into a tall jug; let it stand 10 minutes so the sand sinks.

3. 3

   3. Pour the broth off through a fine sieve, leaving the grit behind, and make it up to 1 litre (4 cups) with bottled clam juice or water.

4. 4

   4. Shell the clams, chop the meat into 1 cm (1/2 in) pieces and keep it covered and cold.

5. 5

   5. In a heavy soup pot over low heat, render the salt pork until crisp and golden; lift out the cracklings and keep them for the garnish.

6. 6

   6. Add the butter, onions, celery, bay and thyme to the fat and cook gently for about 10 minutes, until the onions are soft and translucent but not coloured.

7. 7

   7. Add the potatoes and the clam broth, which should just cover them; bring to a boil and cook, covered, about 10 minutes, until the potatoes are soft outside but still firm in the middle.

8. 8

   8. Crush a few potato pieces against the side of the pot and simmer 1 to 2 minutes more so the broth thickens slightly. For a thicker chowder, stir in the crushed crackers now.

9. 9

   9. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the chopped clams and the cream. Season with pepper, then taste for salt; the clams usually supply enough.

10. 10

    10. Leave the chowder to stand for at least 30 minutes and up to an hour so the flavours blend (New Englanders say it 'cures').

11. 11

    11. Reheat over low heat until steaming, about 75 °C (170 °F); do not let it boil, or the clams toughen and the cream may split.

12. 12

    12. Ladle into warm bowls, remove the bay leaves, and top with the herbs and salt-pork cracklings. Serve with oyster crackers.